Dining at Farmhaus in Saint Louis is a wild-ride for the palette and a lip-smackingly pleasurable experience. Not since eating at David Chang’s Momofuku Ssam Bar have I tasted concoctions that raised my eyebrows on paper only to find myself scoffing them down with sheer delight. In our six entrée, pig-out-fest, Chef Kevin Willmann’s creativity kept coming which didn’t surprise me since he most recently, smoked pig hearts for the likes of Bizarre Foods, Andrew Zimmerman.
The evening began with a silky, smoky goat cheese fish dip served with homemade lavash and local endive. The warm, mushroom salad was comforting and the crispy gnocchi with sweet potato puree, black kale, ricotta cheese, and crunchy chicken skin crumble was simply brilliant. And trust me when I say that the bacon-wrapped meatloaf was one of those meals that could soothe even on the coldest of January days. Pork and pancetta sausage with collard greens and sorgum turnips in a wine ham hock sauce richly rounded out the meal.
Don’t expect the typical piece of chocolate cake with a candle if you mention it’s your birthday—instead, an ice cold (chilled to 30 degrees) can of Busch (Willmann’s favorite beer) complete with a candle wrapped in tin foil. I couldn’t think of a better way to end such a lovely culinary trip. Details: www.farmhausrestaurant.com